Eoghanacht Locha Lein
Eoghanacht Locha Léin
Aghadoe Castle
By courtesy of Rod
Aghadoe, in Irish Achadh Dhá Eó (The Field of the Two Yews), which lies on the heights above Loch Léin near Killarney, was the site of residence of O'Donoghue kings in the 12th and 13th centuries.
Aghadoe Cathedral
It is judged that a monastery stood on this site from as early as the 7th century, founded by St Finian Lobhar (Leper). Strong links existed between Aghadoe and Inisfallen (below).
By courtesy of Rod
The Usurper of West Munster and Prince of Loch Léin, Amhlaoibh (Awly) Mór O’Donoghue, expanded the church at Aghadoe Heights in the 12th century in an effort to gain a bishopric in Desmond to counter that at Ardfert, which
By courtesy of Rod
There is no evidence that Aghadoe was ever in fact recognized as a bishopric, but the discovery of the Aghadoe Crosier buried in the cathedral shows how intense Awly Mór’s effort was in attempting to gain a bishopric for south Munster prior to his death. It is possible the Crosier was buried with him.
The Aghadoe crosier
By courtesy of National Museum
The crosier is the only extant example of a volute curved style typical of the Romanesque period of the twelfth century. Fashioned from morse (walrus) ivory it is a unique artefact of such material in all Ireland. It is plausible that it was created to also serve as a battle standard and used by Awly Mór during his campaign against Thomond. It is possible that it was buried with him. It is a treasure of Kerry heritage, on exhibition at the National Museum.
The National Museum contends in its audio guide accompanying the display of the artefact that it was possibly made for an O’Moriarty chief, which we find mistaken and contentious. Their logic stems from the belief that there are similarities with the Cross of Cong, commissioned by The O’Connor king of Connacht, with whom O’Moriarty was allied at the time. Compelling evidence suggests this is extremely improbable (see ‘The Usurpers of West Munster’ in the 2012 Kerry Magazine, reprinted in the April 2013 Society Journal and in the 2014 Journal of the Kerry Archaeological and Historical Society) and we have advised the Museum of our concerns. They are unwilling to consider our more logical explanation of its connection to Awly Mór.
Awly Mór’s powerful opposition to Dalcassian ambitions may have included setting himself up as King/Bishop of Aghadoe. He was already identified in the Annals of Inisfallen as ‘Champion of West Munster and High King of Loch Léin’. In any case, his ambitions were cut short when he was killed on the banks of the River Suir in a battle with the O’Briens.
Aghadoe Round Tower
By courtesy of Rod
A few yards from the west end of the cathedral stand the remains of a round tower which probably dates to the early part of the eleventh century. It is most likely that this was a belfry and a place where monastic treasures were placed at times of danger.
View from across the lake
By courtesy of Rod
Standing on the heights of Aghadoe provides an exceptional view of the lake and the mountains, no less so today than way back in earlier times.
Inisfallen Island
By courtesyof Rod
The Annals of Innisfallen, a major source of early Irish history and now stored in the Bodleian Library in Oxford were at least partly written there. In that century, a period of great anarchy, the monastery was raided by the O’Donoghues. Generally, however, they were patrons of the monks. The island was abandoned during the Cromwellian period. A boat ride on a sunny day to this tranquil place is a must.
By courtesy of Rod
By courtesy of Rod

